If this land will soon raise its head from the mud, it will be due to the many volunteers who are working tirelessly to rebuild what has been lost. According to estimates by the Region of Emilia-Romagna, there are at least 3,000 individuals who have stepped forward, to which are added 2,000 volunteers from the Civil Protection and various associations. But these are only those who have “registered” as volunteers, through municipalities and groups.

Today, as I write, Romagna is on its knees. After two years of extreme drought the month of May has brought almost 2 feet of rain (500 mm) two big flash floods. The towns of Faenza, Cesena, Forlì, some parts of Ravenna are under water, as well as smaller municipalities and even the arcades of the Via Saffi in central Bologna. The devastation is massive: electricity blackouts, telephone lines out of order, trains haywire, all leading to the anguish fueled by the isolation of entire areas.

Fifteen years and a lifetime ago our family of five—my wife, our three school-aged children and I—lived in Italy. It was our la dolce vita period. That experience reawakened a love for many things—family, simplicity, beauty, adventure, and notably, all things food-related. Upon returning to my American home, even as I resumed a conventional career and lifestyle, I was changed. Among other things, I spent more hours creating in the kitchen, relishing every moment. I was even inspired to enroll in a formal culinary arts training program. Life continued, enriched.

This is dedicated to the people of the mountains around the town of Santa Sofia at the border of Romagna and Tuscany. Don Zanchini, a young man who had just been appointed parish priest of Pietrapazza, tells us about his first Christmas in the remote mountain parish almost 100 years ago…

How can a piece of cloth, even if it is natural linen, beautifully stamp-printed in an ancient tradition, mean so much to a person? Well, let me tell you.

During our Ravenna tour we met the contemporary mosaic artist Marco De Luca in his studio. We expected to be impressed by this highly respected master, yet the time spent in his studio left more than a lasting impression on us. Perhaps it even changed the way we look at art objects and artists. Modest and reserved, now in his early 70s, De Luca had just created a large-scale mosaic for the church of Pegognaga, which was partially destroyed by an earthquake. The church was originally built in the 1950’s and was slated for demolition when they called upon De Luca to create a mosaic for the new construction they envisioned.

As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve been in Italy these past few months. All through the long isolation, sadness and uncertainty of Covid I have been dreaming of Italy. Throughout the past 18 months, I have promised myself at the first real possibility I will travel: I will not delay any longer visiting and physically being present with my friends there. And luckily I have been here since August - living in Cesena, the city which was my home for a while in pre-pandemic times. It also has given me a chance to visit the places we’ll be going to in 2022 and reconnect with the friends we’ll be seeing when we return in 2022 with Esperienza.

Being back in Italy is, well, a blast! And in August, there is an abundance of cultural events! Plus, everyone is in an especially good mood because they are already on or are anticipating an upcoming vacation. For me this time, in the very memorable August of 2021, it all started with the Festa Artusiana – a 9-day culinary marathon from July 31st to August 8th. It has taken place since 1997 in Forlimpopoli, Emilia Romagna, and includes a celebration of the birthday of Pellegrino Artusi, the author of the Italian cooking bible and therefore the "father" of Italian cuisine. I was invited to participate by Esperienza collaborator and Festa Artusiana key organizer, Casa Artusi, the first cultural center in Italy dedicated completely to home cooking.

It’s been two very long years since I last visited Italy. Though I suspect much has changed, I am looking forward to those things that will likely never change: the stunning landscape, the fresh, locally sourced food, and the people who animate and make all of Italy’s magic possible.

I vividly remember my European grandmother gathering young nettles, sorrel and fiddleheads in the woods near our village. “After winter we need all these vitamins and minerals, the nettles will make you strong” she would say. The hint of sour in the taste of sorrel soup and the mild bitterness of risotto with nettles were so different from our winter fare, they remain imprinted in my memory.